1. How high to hang them
There is a popular rule of thumb - 30" - 36" above the kitchen island. That being said, there are lot of other things to consider, such as ceiling height, size of the pendants, beam spread, pendant type and glare, to name a few.
For me, the lower the better. When a pendant is cut short and hanging closer to the ceiling than the surface below, it kinda breaks my heart. A good way to safeguard against this is to ask your electrician to tuck extra cable into the canopy and/or ceiling so it can be lowered at a later date if you realise that would be better down the line.
Don't worry about it blocking your view, you'll be able to see between the pendants, if not through them. Don't hang pendants to avoid seeing them.
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2. How far apart should they be
When thinking about how far apart the pendants should be, think about the edge of the island and work inwards. You don't want the pendants at the very edge of the island. At a minimum you want the edge of the light 6 inches inwards from the edge, otherwise, it could seem like they're falling off into space. Remember the pendants hang in the void above the island (sounds obvious, I know) but the space above should ascend to a crescendo, a vanishing point - not spread out wider than the island. Like a bow on top of a present.
When I pick the centre of pendants, I take a lot of variables into consideration. A basic rule of thumb to find the centre point is to position the flanking pendants equal distance on either side, in what would be the middle point if the middle pendant was the edge of the island to the edge of the island on either side, if that makes sense.
If you're lucky, you've chosen your lights before the electrician put the cables in, which means that the tail is not wagging the dog. But if your cables are already in place, not to worry, we can find plenty of options to suit the cable locations (I do this all the time).
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3. How many do you need
This absolutely depends on the size of the lights. If you go for small lights, you can fit a small army of pendants across the length of your island. If you have the height for a statement pendant, sometimes just one big one will do the trick. That being said, the most common formula for kitchen islands is 2 to 3 pendants.
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4. The right shape
I feel strongly about the shape of pendants suiting the space. There's no way to determine the right shape without taking the whole room into consideration, considering the pitch of the ceiling, the views, the angles of the furniture, the windows, etc as well as personal preference. There's an element of artistry in choosing the shape, like an instinct. However, I'll try to give you some tips. High ceilings do better with shapes that bring the focus back down onto the kitchen island, like cones, drops and spheres. Low ceilings benefit from discs, drums and horizontal lights that provide a wide beam spread (horizontal lights are also great for vaulted ceilings).
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5. The right size
This one is not as straightforward as you might think. This is because size can be played with. Small pendants with wide, powerful beam spreads can work incredibly well in huge kitchens, quietly working away without making a fuss, whilst large pendants can cheer up a small kitchen. Ceiling heights are also a big consideration when choosing the right size. I'm sorry that I can't give you a formula for this quandary, but keep an open mind and call me to check before you order - nothing's more disappointing than the lights you envision being amazing ending up being way too big or small for the space. A great thing to do is make a mock up of the size on cardboard and hang it up. It will help immeasurably. See what I did there ...
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6. Keeping them clean
Kitchens are pretty clean these days with air circulation, vents and healthy lifestyles on the rise. However, it's still a working space and bound to be one of the rooms that needs the most cleaning, and your lights are no exception.
I advise avoiding pendants with textures in kitchens, especially soft materials like wool, felt and paper (there are some paper shades with special coating which are easier to keep clean). Beyond materials, there's also styles such as ribs, metal and glass rods that can prove tricky to keep clean. Remember that each element needs individual wiping and cleaning. Lights without solid shades can trap dust more easily.
Glass is easy to keep clean, though watch out for clear glass as it will show dust on a regular basis. Metal can be easy to keep clean, depending on the finish. High polished finishes show fingerprints and are more maintenance than natural and matt finishes.
The shape of the pendant plays into the ease of maintenance. Conical shapes are easier to keep clean than complicated shapes. Discs will trap more dust than drop shapes. If there are dangly bits, like crystal drops, the little hooks can get snagged on microfibre cloths.
Another thing to consider is being able to physically reach the pendants to clean them. Some islands are quite wide, and it might mean that you (or your cleaner) has to get on top of the island to access the pendants.
Always check the cleaning instructions - most state no harsh abrasives.
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8. Avoid lights that will cast glare onto your kitchen island worktop
This consideration is something that is often overlooked - the way the light above the island looks reflected back onto the island. Sometimes, if you're not careful, you can get unwanted glare and reflections bouncing off the island, disrupting the flow and harmony of the space. Worst case, you'll get little bright spots of LED diodes which no one wants to see. If the island worktop is polished/shiny/reflective, please consider lights without sharp downwards beams of light, preferring softer ambient lights where you don't see the light source at all.
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9. Cable considerations
You would not believe how many different ways there are to suspend pendants. There are chains, rods, ropes, swag hooks, braided cable and electric cable with or without stainless steel support cables to name a few. Most cables (generic term for what connects the pendant to the electrics and suspends the pendants) can be field cuttable - meaning that your electrician can shorten the cable on-site. There are some pendants who's length cannot be altered on-site, so it's always worth checking. Usually, these pendants can be customised when ordering to suit the length required, but you'll have to be very sure about the overall length.
I understand and appreciate that most people prefer a single, straight cable but that can be very limiting in terms of choices. I would encourage you to keep an open mind when it comes to pendants that have a 'loose' electrical cable as well as a straight stainless steel cable. This is done because the stainless steel cable supports the weight whilst the looser, winding cable carries the electrics. Electrical cable is not strong enough to carry pendants over a certain weight, so you need the steel cable to do the heavy lifting. Furthermore, these pendants are usually designed to lean into the winding effect of the electrical cable, and you may be disappointed if you try to make it as straight as the steel cable, which it never will be. Most steel cables go straight up to the centre of the canopy. The electric cable is often fed into the side of the canopy. They're different cables on the same light fitting and that's okay.
Smaller pendants can be supported from the electric cable, just bear in mind that this is because the pendant is lightweight, and it may take time for the electric cable to straighten out. You may see some kinks for a little while, till the cable warms up and gets pulled straighter over time.
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10. Canopy choices
If you like clean lines and minimal (visual) clutter, consider finding pendants that have a recessed canopy option. A recessed canopy is flush with the ceiling, stuffing the electrics inside the ceiling void and out of the way. Most pendants come with a surface mounted canopy that sits proud of the ceiling but there are a few pendants that offer recessed canopies. The recessed canopy option may not be obvious at first, but that's what I'm here for - to dig out the best versions and details on your behalf.
If you can't fit a recessed canopy into the ceiling (if a joist or insulation is in the way for example or it's too late cause the ceiling is closed) then try and find a canopy that you like the look of. Avoid cheap white plastic, it won't age well. You would be surprised how a small detail like a canopy makes a big difference in the overall effect. Try to see if the pendant you like offers a canopy finish option, and match that to your kitchen scheme. These are the kinds of details that a good lighting expert will find for you.
Also be aware if the electrical point for the pendant sits close to another object in the ceiling, like a beam or a speaker. That's when the diameter of the canopy becomes very important, because it will affect the centre point of the pendant. You don't want the canopy to butt up against another object, it will look smooshed. You want to give it a little breathing room, aesthetically.
Whenever I look for lights for my clients, I always advise if I notice an unusual canopy, whether it's larger than you might expect or if the screws are visible. And I always try to find the best options.
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Call Autumn Morrison, residential lighting designer, to help you figure out your lighting: +44 0794346 9433 | Or send a message
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